This toner is used to tone fiber-based prints green or blue, depending on the method of use. The green tones are true greens rather than the blue-green tones obtained with most green toners. The blue tone produced is a bright blue, brighter than Photographers° Formulary Iron Blue Toner. This formula has a high capacity for toning prints.
A split tone effect with deep blue shadows and brown highlights may be obtained by first toning in sulfur-based toner such as Hypo-Alum Sepia, brown, or Polysulfide Paper Toner (Kodak T-8), followed by an iron toner such as Iron Blue Toner, Blue Toner (GT-14), Iron Green/Blue Toner, or Ferricyanide-Iron Blue Toner (IT-6).
FOR YOUR CHEMICAL SAFETY
SODIUM SULFIDE: is not
Sodium Sulfite.
Sodium Sulfite (Na2SO3), a
preservative used in almost all photographic developers, is considered to be a
bland chemical. Sodium Sulfide (Na2S)
is a powerful fogging agent and is used mainly in toning baths. It is
considered to be a dangerous chemical unless it is used correctly.
Sodium Sulfide. should be used with
considerable care. Do not allow it to come into contact with acid or any
acidic solutions, such as a stop bath or a fixer.
Sodium Sulfide (as a solid or in
solution) will react with acid to form Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S), a foul
smelling and poisonous gas. Since this is exactly what you do in preparing
the sulfide bath in this kit, please follow the directions carefully.
Sodium Sulfide and its solutions are
caustic. Do not allow them to come into contact with the skin because they
can cause a chemical burn. If contact should occur, wash the area first
with cold water followed by soap and
water. Dispose of solid
Sodium Sulfide or a solution of
Sodium Sulfide down a drain.
First, run cold tap water down the drain for
about 5 minutes to make sure no acid remains in the drain trap. Place the
solid or pour the liquid into the drain pipe. Finally, run tap
water down the drain for at least 10 minutes.
POTASSIUM FERRICYANIDE: in spite of the fact that this compound contains cyanide, it is not particularly toxic. The reason is that the cyanide groups are bound to the iron atom and are not free to act as a poison. The cyanide groups can be released as hydrogen cyanide gas if the Potassium Ferricyanide is placed in a strong acid solution. To dispose of excess Potassium Ferricyanide. (solid or in solution), wash it down the drain with excess water.
MIXING THE SOLUTIONS
You will need one glass or plastic mixing container with a capacity of at
least one liter to mix the Toning Solution. You will also need a one liter
glass or plastic storage container to store the Toning Solution. If at all
possible, use either distilled or demineralized water to mix the Toning
Solution. Hard water often contains iron
ions which will alter the chemistry of the Toning Solution.
TONER WORKING SOLUTION
| Chemical | Amount | Units |
|---|---|---|
| Water (125°F/52°C) | 500 | ml |
| Ferric Ammonium Citrate | 8 | g |
| Potassium Ferricyanide | 8 | g |
| Sodium bisulfate | 6 | g |
| Water to make | 1000 | ml |
SULFIDE STOCK SOLUTION
| Chemical | Amount | Units |
|---|---|---|
| Water (68°F/20°C) | 800 | ml |
| Sodium sulfide | 20 | g |
| Water to make | 1000 | ml |
PREPARING THE SULFIDE BATH
You will use part of the Toning Solution to make this solution. This
solution should be mixed immediately before use in a well ventilated area and
disposed of immediately. Prepare the sulfide bath and use it in a well
ventilated area. Hydrogen Sulfide gas will be released in this step and it is
imperative that this gas be vented or dissipated.
Mix only the volumes given below for a single working session. Do not mix larger volumes. The reason is that a limited amount of sulfide will be used and if an error should occur, dangerous amounts of Hydrogen Sulfide will not be released.
| Chemical | Amount | Units |
|---|---|---|
| Water (68°F/20°C) | 880 | ml |
| Sodium sulfide solution | 100 | ml |
| Sulfide Stock Solution | 20 | ml |
TONING THE PRINT GREEN
All toners work best if the print is fixed with a nonhardening fixer such a
TF-4 (catalog number 03-0141). A hardening fixer
decreases the permeability of the gelatin of the print thus decreasing the
ability of the toning chemicals to reach the silver metal in the print.
Toning will cause some intensification in the final print. However the depth of the color is dependent on the silver density of the starting print. Best results seem to result when the starting print has a density somewhat lighter than you wish in your final toned print.
The green tone obtained from this kit will change to blue in chlorinated alkaline water so water baths are probably acidified. It is not necessary however in all cases, depending on your water. This is accomplished by adding 10 to 50 ml of 28% acetic acid stop bath per 500 ml of water. The amount needed should be determined using test strips. Also, since water drops may cause blue spots on the print, a wetting agent such as Forma-Flo (catalog number 03-0195) in the final water bath in the ratio of 1 ml Forma-Flo per 250 ml of water. Use constant agitation throughout the process. All baths should be 68°F/20°C.
Dry the print as quickly as possible, or there will be a shift toward blue. If the toner is not uniform on the print, it was not in the toner solution long enough, or it was not agitated enough. The toned print may be put back in the toner solution to correct for this problem even if the print has been dried. This will also intensify the green slightly. Change the water baths frequently, every 4 or 5 8x10's.TONING THE PRINT BLUE
Follow the directions for toning the print green except omit the acid and
wetting agent from the water baths and let the print soak in plain
water 4-5 minutes or until the blue tone is
obtained.
NOTES
Any print that has been toned green may be made blue by allowing it to soak in
plain water. If your water
is very acid you can add a tablespoon of table salt to the
water to speed up the process.
REFERENCE
Iron Green/Blue Toner Kit No. 06-0200,
Photographers' Formulary (800-922-5255).